Tony Gemignani amps up the pizza selection at Slice House
Tony Gemignani is at it again. As if the eight styles of pizza at his duo of North Beach restaurants aren’t enough, he’s introduced an “ancient grain” pie at Slice House, his new outpost near AT&T Park. The dough, a blend of 00 flour, spelt, semolina, whole wheat and sprouted grain, bakes up to just shy of crispy, yet remains more than sturdy enough to support whatever’s on top. Its crustiness and barely sour tinge brought to mind the Acme levain hunks served at Zuni Cafe.